Hello, I’m Odin, and today I’m going to finish a prop! It’s the Eye of Agamotto from Doctor Strange! A few weeks ago I used the AnyCubic Photon 3D printer to make the Eye of Agamotto from Doctor Strange. I have all the parts printed and ready: the face, the back of the body, both the eyelids, and the knob that makes the eye open. I need to remove all the rafting that was auto-generated to support the pieces while it was printing and there’s a lot of it on the back of the eye because it was wider than my print bed, so I had to have it sit diagonally when it printed. But the rafting pieces are kind of neat all on their own and if I still did any tabletop war gaming, this stuff would be perfect for broken buildings and other terrain. There were a lot of overhangs on the back piece so I started to use a grinding bit to clear them out and then generally grinding off the nubs from the rest of the parts. Some were easy to scrape off with a knife, but not all of them. And then when I put the two halves together, I noticed that the bottom had a gap Oh, it had a print problem! Or is it [inaudible] to line up the other way? No, it had a print problem! Oh, that’s interesting! I didn’t think about how that affected the other areas that I couldn’t see. At this point I was just grinding and sanding off the excess so I can get the front halves to fit together nicely And a different power tool for a little more aggressive sanding and I can just pop in the eyelids checking them to see see how well they fit. Yeah, the upper lid’s great. And honestly, this was not the first time I checked. I had been doing this all along while sanding. what I was looking for was enough clearance that the gold paint wouldn’t scratch off when I was making the eyelids move. I removed some from behind the eye opening. If I sand too much off the lids I’m going to lose those fine little detail lines. For over an hour, I check the fit. I would see if the eye would open, and sand a little more. It still didn’t want to work. The eye’s open, it just doesn’t– doesn’t do the thing it’s supposed to do. That’s– [laughs] Yeah, I think this is not going to work. Well, I originally got this model because I thought it was really neat that it had a little mechanism that was supposed to make the eye open and close. Now, it’s probably does. I may have sanded too much off, this could very well be my error but I’m just not seeing this working the way it’s supposed to. Wwhat I didn’t realize at first was the layer shift that I sanded down the front also changed the back so the knob didn’t turn right, and the I couldn’t open. So I printed a new set of all the back parts. I used another AnyCubic 3D printer that I have. It’s not a resin printer, which is okay, the face part is the most important thing to have smooth. But I was a little too aggressive cleaning the rafting on the new part. I was afraid of that. [sigh] I kind of saw that coming. That little piece is part of the hinge that lets the eye open and close. It holds the eyelids in place and it can’t work without it. Well, I need to get my video done, and I don’t have time to print another one so I continue to clean these parts. Okay, it’s kind of working. And I super glued the broken parts back on and used a filler primer on everything to help fill in the layer lines. Sanding round one: I’m just trying to remove the primer from the tops of the layer lines, allowing it to fill in the dips between them and then I spray all the parts and do sanding round two, just removing the primer again. And then after this I sand it for a third time, but this was just 400 grit to smooth the primer and not to remove it. I need to start working on putting a light for the Time Stone, and thankfully the 3D print leaves space to be able to do that easily. I have a couple of flashlights that have a bright and compact LED, and it’s not the typical LED bulb. This is a PCB LED which is thin, and that’s perfect because I can fit a button cell battery a wire and the LED in that little space in the knob and still have room for a Time Stone. For the Time Stone I’m going to use a large green rhinestone. It’s nearly a perfect fit. I sanded the mirror finish off the back so light can go through it and then I sanded the front which ruins the rhinestone look, but that’s kind of good because I want an irregular shape, and the sanding makes a frosted finish on the plastic and that diffuses the light and lets it help to glow overall, but it’s still not green enough so I take a piece of the green film, place that on the LED, and then I put the Time Stone on top of that. Perfect. The flickering is just because I’m holding the pieces together, it won’t flicker once I’ve got it soldered. And all of the pieces seem to fit easily into the resin printed piece but I was unsure if I could use it because that this point I still didn’t know why the I wasn’t opening. Interesting. So I was really determined to use the filament printed one, but the parts didn’t fit. This fits, right? No, it didn’t, so I went down a path wasting a lot of time trying to sand it and grind it and changing the inside shape so it’ll fit the battery and cutting out a piece in the back for a micro switch to fit. I even reduced the size of the PCB board that the LED was on so it would fit. And to mount the switch I made a small circle of plastic drilled three holes in it for the legs of the switch to fit through and a small drop of super glue will hold to switch to the plastic. There’s also a chance of gluing your switch so I can’t move when you do this. Then I soldered one of the battery spring connectors to the center of the leg switch and soldered to wire to one of the other legs. the switch will turn the light on and off. I set the battery parts into the 3D printed piece and I soldered the LED to the other end of the wire, and everything worked. Except it really didn’t. The filament printed parts are thermoplastics, and the friction of all the grinding warped the plastic and the eye opening mechanism no longer worked but I figure all that out later when the cameras weren’t running, of course. So I spray painted all the parts brilliant gold and I just used the resin printed knob instead. The LED parts fit, and I just needed a hole for the switch. I’m going to use Rub-n-Buff to make those center pieces silver on the face. [music] The rest of the weathering is done with a mix of acrylic craft paint and rubbing alcohol and at first I painted it on too thick, needing to wipe most of the paint back off but as I worked around on the different parts and I did this black wash to all of them I started using less paint and more rubbing alcohol and if there was not enough black I could just do it again and add a little more and I could use clean alcohol to wipe off the areas that had paid water drops. And that’s it for the painting. To secure the electronics to the eye, I decided to use a piece of double stick foam. This not only holds the switch to the bottom of the eye, but it gave me a place to put some foam into this build. I put in a brand new battery, and I put the LED in place, and then I added the green film, and then the Time Stone rhinestone. I want to hold everything in place so I can glue it, so I’m going to take one of the clips off my helping hand tool and set it so it presses lightly on the LED assembly, compressing the springs. I need to add a little bit of weight to help the Helping Hand be handy. This way I know the Time Stone will fit under the eyelids, and I can add two drops of super glue to hold it in place. In the future, changing the battery will be a pain but it can be done. While the super glue sets, I use some gold Rub-n-Buff to add highlights back the gold parts and a few minutes later, the super glue has set, and the light still works. Good. I put the eye together, popping in the lower eyelid first, and then placing the upper eyelid and the two bumps on the cog, they line up with grooves in the back of the eyelid. Oh, there we are. Oh, yeah. Which is how it opens the eye when you turn it. I’m going to use 5-minute epoxy glue on the face of the eye. I only applied epoxy where wouldn’t be seen, and the painted side has so much texture it’s gonna stick just fine. And I mixed up enough epoxy that I can glue in the braided leather cord that I got at a craft store. Cut the cord to a good length, I measured it before I glued it on and I’m gonna use epoxy to glue on the clasp to the ends, and these I also found at the same craft store. I use some black liquid shoe polish to age the leather cord, and I made it really black at the ends. I need to put a protective coat on this so the acrylic doesn’t wipe back off, and I’m going to use floor wax because it won’t hurt the metallic shine. But I’m told that a lacquer coat will work, too, but I have not tried it. Realistically, I probably should have done this before I glued it all together, I got ahead of myself. So, I’m not going to paint inside around the eye because I don’t want to paint the eye closed I don’t want it to glue it shut. [music] All the crafty elements I picked up locally, the parts were printed on my AnyCubic Photon resin printer and the 3D file I use is from Black Ram Industries. I put a link in description. This project was more fun and more challenging than I had expected. I thought just getting the eye mechanism to work was going to be a big deal while I was doing it. Naw, getting the LED to work was actually a bit more of a challenge. I suppose that’s two of the Infinity Stones I’ve got done now. I better start planning on a third. It’s probably going to be 3D printed again but I’ll still get foam in there somewhere because This is how Odin Makes. I want to thank Stephen Bletas, Bryan J., and all of my Patreon supporters. You guys really do make this show possible. If you like the video, don’t forget to subscribe! Have an idea for something for me to make? Please leave a comment below. And if you make any of these projects, you can send me a picture.